Back Roads and Bedbugs: Swain’s Mediterranean Adventures, 1924–1926
As the University of Michigan embarked on important archaeological projects in the 1920s, photographer George R. Swain—aided by two trusty Detroit-made vehicles—was essential in capturing both the excavations in progress and a world in flux following the Great War.
From 1924 to 1926, the University of Michigan ventured into the Mediterranean, the Middle East, and North Africa to undertake pioneering archaeological expeditions. These were exciting years in archaeology, with university researchers uncovering important finds at Antioch, Turkey; Carthage, Tunisia; and Karanis, Egypt. The unsung heroes of these daunting campaigns were two Detroit “dig” cars: a plucky Dodge sedan and an intrepid Graham Brothers truck. Each carried hundreds of pounds of equipment, personnel, and supplies, all while navigating miles of uncharted territory, dangerous mountain passes, and far-flung locations where rubber had never before met the road.
George R. Swain, a photographer from U-M, was hired not only to photograph the remains of the ancient sites but also to drive and maintain the two vehicles. The Detroit-made cars allowed him to encounter parts of the world that few people could visit at the time. With cameras at hand, Swain captured images of snake charmers, vendors at bustling markets, isolated monasteries, the plights of migrants and orphans, and treks across the desert. These intriguing sights—as well as the quirks and unfailing reliability of the truck and sedan—became the subjects of Swain’s many letters home, university reports, and illuminating articles in the Detroit News. By melding Swain’s photographs with his writings, we become witnesses to life in remote locations that were experiencing radical political and social changes in the wake of the Great War. Together, they offer us an invaluable, personal narrative of lives and moments that might otherwise have been forever lost in the silence of time.
1. Eastman View Camera No. 2
Wood, metal, glass
1914–1925
Eastman Kodak Company, Rochester, NY
Kelsey Museum Archives
Swain traveled with several cameras during his overseas expeditions, including this large-format view camera. Although cumbersome, it created sharp, detailed images well suited for archaeological work. Swain’s other cameras consisted of a handheld Kodak for impromptu images and the ingenious Cirkut camera (patented in 1904), which could capture panoramic views up to 360 degrees.
2. Glass Plates
1920s
Kelsey Museum Archives
Glass-plate negatives, which were eventually replaced by paper negatives, were invented in the 1850s. These glass negatives produced sharp, stable, and detailed prints that rival digital images of today.
3. Film Canister
Ca. 1920s
Kelsey Museum Archives
4. Letters Home
From Robert’s Foreign Letters, 1926
Kelsey Museum Archives
Swain was an inveterate letter writer. While traveling overseas, he wrote almost daily to his family in Ann Arbor. One of his sons, Robert, lovingly collected the family letters from 1926 in the notebook shown here.
Selected Photos
As the university photographer, George R. Swain was tasked with documenting the contexts and finds of Michigan’s archaeological projects. But he also often turned his camera to the world around him, capturing scenes of daily life in the Mediterranean, the Middle East, and North Africa. This slideshow provides a brief snapshot of some of the landscapes, customs, vehicle mishaps, and people from Swain’s early 20th-century travels.
This Kelsey in Focus case complements the publication of Lauren E. Talalay’s 2024 book, From the Motor City to the Mediterranean: Travels of a Truck, a Sedan, and an Inquisitive Photographer, 1924–1926. Learn more here.
