Last month, the New York Fashion Week closed with Thom Browne’s dream-like show inspired by birds. The catwalk was set with 2,000 origami birds and the models featured feathery eyelashes, bold hair colors, and bird-like patterns on their clothes. The sleeve lines were bold and voluminous, like wings, –something entirely new for the designer primarily known for shrinking hemlines and jackets – and the last model walked around with the grandiosity of a bird of paradise or a peacock. This is barely breaking news. Nature has long been a muse for fashion creators, with its rich tapestry of colors, patterns, and textures inspiring some of the most iconic collections in the industry.
This month, as the fashion week crowds travel from NYC to London, Milan, and Paris, there’s another big event happening, that has to do with decorating, adorning, and using accessories to survive everyday life: the competition for the International Mollusc of the Year. It might not be featured on Vogue, but it does feature the original influencer, nature’s expert on layering and a creature that has never taken into consideration the famous quote attributed to Coco Chanel “before you leave the house, look in the mirror and remove one accessory”: Xenophora conchyliophora.
According to EEB’s Phd Student, Yu Kai Tan, who is participating in the competition with a finalist specimen, “the Atlantic Carrier Snail, Xenophora conchyliophora, is one of the ocean’s most creative molluscs. This gastropod collects and cements objects such as shells, coral fragments, and even seaglass onto its own shell, constructing an intricate mosaic that serves as both camouflage and a tough armour. Carrier snails are rarely-seen creatures, living in shallow reefs to nearly 2000 m deep. Their charming behavior has made them widely loved by scientists and shell collectors. For centuries, carrier snails have sparked debates about whether different species have specialised tastes for certain objects. Xenophora conchyliophora may even have distinct populations known to specialise on pebbles, or small bivalve shells. For its unique ingenuity and its potential to unravel the mysteries of complex animal behavior, Xenophora conchyliophora is a fantastic nominee for International Mollusc of the Year!”
For the rest of us, who have to rely on inspiration for our accessories, nature is again the answer. The Pantone color of 2025 is the rich, warm brown of earth, coffee, and cocoa. It is prevalent in all fashion shows this year worldwide and on most red carpets. It only shares the spotlight with the vibrant colors and intricate patterns in insects like butterflies and beetles. Because, among the many elements of nature, insects, animals, and ocean life stand out not only for their unique aesthetic appeal but also for their symbolic richness. They are a favorite subject for designers seeking to blend beauty and narrative in their creations. From Roberto Cavalli and Versace’s animal prints and Gucci’s bee brooches and decorative details to Valentino's Spring 2014 Haute Couture collection with ethereal gowns adorned with butterfly embroidery, designer and fashion artists love the feathery, dreamlike, animal quality of anything that speaks to transformation and freedom.
There are times, though, when fashion and nature butt heads. To address the largest land mammal in the room, fashion is the second most polluting industry in the world, threatening the very thing that keeps inspiring it. Designer and activist Stella McCartney is the pioneer who came up with alternatives and changed the way we think about high fashion, creating pieces that reflect animal motifs without using any animal products. Her commitment to sustainability ensures that the beauty of wildlife is celebrated in a manner that respects the environment. And so many houses and brands followed her lead the last few years –which is a great start.
Now, let us know what is your favorite mollusc –and inspiration!
